Juniper Publishers Textile Science Engineering Journal

CURRENT TRENDS IN FASHION TECHNOLOGY & TEXTILE ENGINEERING - JUNIPER PUBLISHERS Authored by  David M Lewis Abstract Bleached cotton fabrics have been dyed with Remazol (sulphatoethylsulphone (Dystar)), Procion MX (dichloro-s-triazine (Dystar)) and Procion HE (bis-monochloro-s-triazine (Dystar)) reactive dyes to yield suitable coloured backgrounds for subsequent reductive discharge ink-jet printing. Silk fabric has also been dyed with an acid dye to provide an alternative substrate for subsequent discharge printing. Suitable white discharge inks have been formulated using either Decrolin (zinc sulphoxylate formaldehyde (BASF)) or Rongalit C (sodium sulphoxylate formaldehyde (BASF)), whilst coloured illuminating inks have been formulated using either vat or solubilised vat dyes. Inks containing both a discharging agent and an illuminating colour have also been developed. A process has been developed in which the free aromatic amine groups present in the discharged areas of white ...

Journal of Fashion Technology -  Juniper publishers Abstract My anthropological glance will focus one a fashion shows in Rio de Janeiro and a “passista” carioca in the carnival 2011; a Karl Lagerfeld’s fetish design (body-corpse); a bizarre mannequin I met in Belem (Brazil). I’ll try to demonstrate the deep connection between living body and death corpse in a meta-fetishist perspective and - by the meta-morphic dialogue written by Giacomo Leopardi - on fashion and death (Figure 1). Go to Fashion Rio The model is stationary, as a doll-like, in the sense of “dollifyng” her body: an empty gaze directed towards nothing, both arms inert by her side, her legs in a hopelessly waiting. The trained eroptic (8) eye targets her without hesitation, not so much the bikini, but what is tattooed just above her pubis: a vida não é assim, nunca, para nem para sempre (‘life is not like this, never and even less for ever’). A philosophical statement presented by fashion as a re...